Chanukkah Sufganiot (Donuts) at “English Cake” in Agrippas Street.
Nachlaot (near the Machane Yehudah Market) is one of Jerusalem’s most popular neighbourhoods. In the 1950ies and 1960ies, Nachlaot was dominated by Sephardi Jews from Morocco, Iraq or Kurdistan. About ten years ago, the neighbourhood underwent a tremendous change when wealthy American Jews started to move in. The result was that the once affordable Nachlaot became more and more expensive and today you have to pay a lot of money for the worst dumb in order to live there. Wherever American immigrants move, the rent is going up. In Nachlaot as well as in Zfat (northern Israel).
Nachlaot is basically devided into two parts: The regular section and a haredi part where, a couple of years ago, the famous Israeli movie USHPIZIN was made. However, all residents have become totally fed up with visitor groups. Plenty of Israeli tour groups keep on streaming into Nachlaot at day and night. Tour guides are screaming into microphones at 2 am in the morning. Now the residents have set up signs where tourists are told to be quiet and show respect. The haredi part has shut down and declared the backyards as private property where entrance is forbidden. I can understand the residents, as I have witnessed the behaviour of tour groups and how they stare into windows and take pictures.
When I walk through Nachlaot, I am always reminded of the old city in Zfat although the residents are totally different. Nachlaot has it’s own character and so has Zfat.